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QUESTION:
Are there still quilters out there, who prefer hand piecing and hand quilting?
Are those machine pieced/quilted quilts anything worth?
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ANSWER:
There are many quilters who prefer to hand piece and hand quilt. Jinny Beyer is a well-known quilter who advocates hand piecing (see her website below). There are two schools of thought on which is faster. For people who machine piece, they can get more done in a single block of time. But people who hand piece can take their work with them and work on it whenever they have a few minutes - waiting in line, etc.
Both produce beautiful work. If I'm understanding your second line correctly, you're wondering if machine pieced/quilted quilts are worth anything. Of course they are. In fact, the sewing machine has been around for a lot longer than people think - since around 1850. Within a few decades, anyone who could afford it had a sewing machine, and used it to piece their quilts. Remember, there were two reasons to make quilts - as useful but attractive bed coverings and as decorative "status symbols." Those who were making bed coverings wanted to make it as quickly and easily as possible, so they used machines if they were able to afford them. Those who were making status symbols used machines because they wanted to show that they had the latest new thing. Even Amish quilts are often pieced on (non-electric) treadle machines - it's about efficiency.
I think that quilting is a fantastic way to express your creativity, regardless if you use a machine or sew by hand. I've oohed and aahed over hand quilted whole cloth quilts at the quilt shows, and I've exclaimed over the intricate machine pieced and quilted ones as well. They are both beautiful, and should be judged on their own merit, not by comparing them against each other.
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QUESTION:
How much will quilting fabric shrink if I wash it before piecing it together?
I'm trying to figure out how big my pieces of fabric will be after I wash them. I know that I have heard cotton quilting fabric shrinks about 2-3%. Is this usually the standard?
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ANSWER:
It depends on the quality of the fabric. The good stuff that you buy at quilt shops is more expensive (usually in the - range) but it shrinks less and the colors are less likely to run. The cheap stuff that you can pick up at WalMart or the large chain fabric store will shrink a bit more, and some of the colors may fade or bleed. Also, different kinds of fabric shrink differently. Cotton flannel will shrink considerably more than plain cotton.
I don't prewash my fabrics, but that's a personal preference. There are arguments both for and against. I like the crisp feel of unwashed fabric when I'm sewing, and I like the old fashioned puckery look of the finished quilt after washing it. And frankly, washing is kind of a hassle - I like to be able to just grab something off the shelf and start sewing. If you're using good quality fabric, have tested the colors to make sure they won't bleed (cut a small piece and put it in a white or clear bowl with some hot soapy water for a while, then blot on a white towel) you should be okay not washing it. You also need to watch for reactions to the chemicals in fabrics - if your hands get too dry or itchy or if you find yourself with the sniffles whenever you handle the fabric, then prewash it. Since I don't prewash, I always wash my finished quilt with a Shout Color Catcher the first couple of times. This soaks up any dye that is released into the water so it doesn't stain the light portions of the quilt.
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QUESTION:
quilting question for paper piecing for grandmothers fan?
Does anyone have a link to a site where i can find the grandmothers fan for paper piecing?
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QUESTION:
For paper piecing (quilting), where do I get paper in UK?
I'm starting to do a bit of quilting for a hobby, to get me away from the computer (I seem to be tied to it 24/7). As I don't have a sewing machine, I've decided to use the paper piecing method. I need to get some paper which is reasonably tough and can be used for the templates (you tack them to the material and take it out once the pieces have been sewed together). Supplies of anything related to quilting appear to be a bit limited, or maybe i'm looking in the wrong places...
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ANSWER:
Some folks use the stiff postcard inserts that come in magazines (usually to ask you to subscribe). Ask your friends to save these up for you.
Or, go a good office supply and/or paper store (the sort of place where printers buy their paper) and look for a similar weight paper.
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QUESTION:
How do you back a english paper piecing quilt?
How do you put batting and a backing on a quilt that has been put together through english paper piecing?
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ANSWER:
Not sure what you're asking, exactly. I would say it's the same as layering any pieced quilt top, really. Keep the thickness of the batting in scale to the size of your pieces and the quilting design you plan to use - thin batting for small pieces/designs, or standard batting for medium-sized pieces/designs. You can also use just flannel for batting, or even no batting at all, if you prefer (old-time 'summer' quilts or coverlets often had no filling but were just stitched to the backing).
If this wasn't what you meant, you may wish to edit your questions to add additional details, and someone can clarify.
Good luck!
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QUESTION:
Anyone have experience with professional quilting machines?
My quilt shop has a professional quilting machine - its huge not like a sewing machine at all but freestanding and capable of doing from baby quilts to quilting king size quilts! Anyway, I am wondering if I could attract enough business to pay for something like this? Any ideas?? I am located in the midwest. I am not sure if piecing quilts is as popular as it was a couple years back. thanks for your input.
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ANSWER:
The machines are very expensive. I have a used (1995) Nolting with a 12 foot table. It was ,000 plus shipping, and was a bargain. New ones are much higher, and the computer driven ones cost far more than a nice new car. There is plenty of business out there, but it is hard work and certainly isn't going to make you wealthy. On the other hand, if you want one for yourself and just need to pay for it with your profits, you could certainly do that, but it might take several years, depending on how much you pay for your machine.
I do love having a longarm of my own and enjoy doing my own quilting on it. It is very creative, and a lot of fun.
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QUESTION:
I am looking for a product called Fun-dation. it is a transparent paper for quilting?
This is a transparent quilt block piecing material. I only want the Fun-dation, the others are not as good. It makes foundation piecing for quilting easier. JoAnn's used to carry it, but they do not anymore. HELP.
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ANSWER:
Yes Joann fabrics used to carry fun-dation, they discontinued it last year, but you can also use joanns light weight non fussible interfacing, which you can cut down and put thru your printer and use for foudation paper piecing, i have used it myself and seen many other quilters use it, it works great, just an option, if not you can go to http://softexpressions.com/software/notions/Fundation.php and order it there.
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QUESTION:
What is your biggest struggle with quilting?
Piecing, hand quilting, applique, getting new ideas ... anything goes here. If you could ask the best grandma in the world, what would you ask her about quilting?
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QUESTION:
What is the difference between Machine Piecing and Machine Quilting?
To further understand my question: What is the "quilted" part of a quilt? I understand that the "top" of a quilt can be "pieced" together by a sewing machine or by hand, and then the "sandwich" is sewn together to make a quilt. So, is the stitches that hold the three layers together considered the "quilted" part of a quilt?
Is there a difference between sewing the pieces together on a machine and then hand sewing the top, batting and back together? Or is this process of combining all three layers considered "quilting"?
Thanks,
-Kevin
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ANSWER:
The entire process is usually referred to as quilting.
The actual process of quilting is the final stitching of the top, center and backing together.
A quilt can be sewn by hand, by machine or a combination of both.
Many quilters prefer to piece their quilts then send them to professional quilters for the final stitching.
Some professionals use machines and frames and some hand stitch with a frame or large hoop.
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QUESTION:
Does anyone know how to do paper piece Quilting patterns?
I am trying to learn to paper piece but get stuck, anyone know how to sew the paper and fabric together perfectly. mine comes out funny.....:(
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ANSWER:
Quilting using paper as a base is called English Piecing and is a wonderful relaxing way to hand piece a quilt because it is so portable and accurate. The two important aspects of paper piecing are cutting the paper ( I prefer to use a light card ) and tacking the fabric ' firmly and neatly' to the card. If you are adapting a regular pattern to use with paper piecing you must cut a fraction off of the edges of the pattern piece card to allow for the thickness of the fabric when it is folded around the paper. This may seem funny but with a quilt with hundreds of pieces, by the time you get to the outside pieces you can be an inch off. Pin the fabric and tack it to the card by using a running stitch ( no knots ) so that it looks neat and firm. when you are completely finished with the top remove the card. I usually make a fabric template for each different shape that includes the trimmed card plus about 1 cm or quarter inch to be folded under. When you join the pieces use an whip stitch with right sides together and again no knots . I start to sew a back stich about an eight of an inch in from a corner and then change directions and catch only a thread or two on each piece. Stiches should be close to each other to ensure when opened out there are no 'holes' between the edges. Hope this helps. 
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QUESTION:
I am looking for a "tea stain" recipe to use on some craft projects. I want to stain old pieces of quilting.
I am making hearts decorations for a Vintage Christmas Tree. I want to tea stain the old quilting material that I will be using. Also need to know the best way to get the tea stain on the material..
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QUESTION:
Where on-line can free continuous-line quilting patterns be found (stitching, not piecing)?
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QUESTION:
What is the easiest way to make triangles for quilting?
My triangles always come out a little off when I go to piece them together for a quilt. Are the kits that are sold to help make triangles for piecing worth the money, or does anyone have a hint to making them without the kit?
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ANSWER:
First, I'm going to assume you mean half square triangles (two right triangles sewn together to form a square) or quarter square triangles (four right triangles sewn together to form a square). These are the most commonly used triangles in quilting.
I'm also going to assume that by kits you mean things like Triangle Papers, Triangles on a Roll, or Thangles. They are fantastic if you are going to make a lot of half square triangles that are made from the same two fabrics. You layer the two fabrics right sides together, pin a sheet of the Triangle Papers to the layers, sew on the dotted lines, then cut on the solid lines. Tear off the papers, press open and you have perfect half square triangles. I'm working on a quilt that uses 2 1/2" finished size HST's, and I can sew, cut and press 24 units (one sheet) in about 10 minutes. I like Triangle Papers better than Thangles, but that's a personal preference. You can find these in most quilt shops, or online.
If you're only doing a few HST's in the same color combos, you're better off to draw the lines yourself directly on the fabric. Cut a square of each fabric exactly 7/8" larger than your finished size (for example, if you want a 2" square after it's sewn into the quilt, it should be 2 1/2" including seam allowances, so you cut the squares at 2 7/8"). On the back of the lighter fabric, use a ruler to draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Draw lines 1/4" on either side of the center diagonal (you don't actually have to draw the center diagonal if you line up the ruler properly). Put the two fabrics right sides together and sew along the two outside drawn lines. Cut along the center line, press open, and you have two HST units.
For quarter square triangle units, take two HST units and put them right sides together, butting the seams up tight against each other. Do the diagonal line drawing thing again, sew, cut and press, and you'll have two QST units. Make sure the seams are pressed tight against each other and the intersection at the center will be perfect.
There are two secrets to making perfect half square triangle units. First, if you're willing to spend a little more time to get pefect squares, sew a larger unit than you need, press, and trim it to the correct size. This is especially good if you're making a quilt that has a lot of half square triangles. If each one is off even 1/16th of an inch, your finished quilt could be off by several inches when you're finished.
Also (and this goes for all seams, not just triangles), sew a SCANT 1/4" seam. Sew a little less than a 1/4" seam because when you press it open you're folding the fabric back over the seam and this takes up a little extra fabric.
The links below are for the three paper products, a review of the three products, and instructions for piecing HST's and QST's using both methods. Be sure to check out the other lessons in this Fons & Porter website - they have some good instructions.
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QUESTION:
Need some help with this quilting question?
Somebody posted this on my message board and I don't know the answer. Is posted here under ask the experts in Quilting help at www.mommyandmimi.com/forum
Here is the question they are asking:
i love making quilt tops, but im scared of quilting...i can handle it for small pieces and such. if i wanted to do a twin bed size, or queen....does anyone have any advice? im no where near ready to quilt this piece, but im getting very anxious about that step...i only want to do a stitch in the ditch thing, to really showcase the squares im doing...idk...any help would be VERY much appreciated!
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ANSWER:
If your machine has a very small space under the arm, then you might not want to try a queen size quilt. You need to be able to bunch up half of the quilt in that space, and still have enough room to move it under the needle. If you have a larger space, it will be possible, but still fairly challenging for larger quilts. The sewing machine should be on a table with a large space behind and to the left. Use a couple of folding tables, if necessary. This is where the weight of the quilt will rest. Push the table into a corner so the quilt will not slide off the back or left side. Drape the excess fabric in front of the machine over your shoulder to manage the rest of it. The slipperier you can make the bed of your machine, the easier it will be to slide the quilt around. There are several products that are made to stick to the bed of the machine and provide a slippery surface.
You can quilt smaller sections and then join them together. This makes it much easier to quilt. There are several instruction books out that discuss different methods. I like "Divide and Conquer" by Nancy Smith and Lynda Milligan. You don't have to do each block separately - you can do strips, center sections, or even quarters, depending on how your quilt is designed.
There are many quilters out there willing to do that step for you. Some people prefer the quilting process to the piecing process. The cost varies depending on location, size, and complexity. Ask at your local quilt shop, or check the ads in the back of quilting magazines. There are both hand and machine quilters offering their services.
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QUESTION:
What stitch is used for piecing together the backing of a quilt?
The backing I want to use on my quilt is too small so I am using two pieces and would like to know the best sticch for this.
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QUESTION:
Where can I buy organic quilting fabric online?
I am ideally looking for fun fabrics at a reasonable price that can be bought in small pieces or as a quilting set. A tall order, I know, but ideas are much appreciated!
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ANSWER:
Is there a reason you're specifically interested in only organic cottons (much of what's available is probably mislabeled -- the tonnage of "organic cotton fabrics" being sold each year exceeds the tonnage of organic cotton fiber, so something's strange someplace. http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/organic-cotton-fraud/
And the dyes used on fabrics are generally of much higher toxicity than any pesticide residues on finished cotton yarns.
Here's one source: http://www.hartsfabric.com/birch-fabric-organic-cotton.html
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QUESTION:
Should I trim down each quilt block to an exact square before piecing them all together?
I am making a quilt. I have a bunch of 12x12 in squares that I have pieced together. They are not quite square and straight. Should I trim each one down maybe a 1/4 inch so they are all exactly square and the same size before I piece them together? Then they'll be a tiny bit smaller though, will it matter? Is it more important that they're exact? Each square is a snowball.
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ANSWER:
Absolutely! If you don't trim them, the joined seams will never match, and you will not have a good outcome. You could trim when finished to square them all...but what if one was tad smaller or larger & is in the middle of the quilt...you are never going to get it to lie flat.
NOTE: If you are making 12" finished blocks...they should be 12-1/2" unfinished...the extra 1/2" gives you the 1/4" seam allowance you need.
If you have the blocks pressed & you want to just have them equal 12" finished when done...you can "cheat" (who me? LOL)...make 12" template (from cardboard, plastic or freezer paper)..center onto the back of each pressed block...and mark a line all around the block...no need to trim... just match up those lines when sewing the blocks together & stitch on that line...you can either just press the seams to one side or trim them down to 1/4" first). If I am doing a simple quilting pattern or I am going to tie off the quilt...I don't trim. If you want to trim the blocks before sewing them, here is how:
If you don't have a rotary cutter, matt and ruler...you will still be ok...here's what I would do (I've been making quilts for over 40 years):
1. First, press all the blocks on the backside...get the seams as flat (usually pressed to one side, or the other of the seam) as you can...Don't Iron...PRESS, up and down, don't drag the iron over the blocks...put the iron onto a section of the block, wait a second or two, lift it and put it on the next section. This keeps the blocks from getting more out of square.
2. Once pressed...measure and find the SMALLEST block's width or length...that's the size you want them all to end up. If you have the rotary cutter set up...trim all to that size...make sure to line the blocks up with the lines on the matt & ruler to keep them square.
3. If you don't have a rotary cutter set up... get a piece of cardboard, plastic, etc. that will let you draw out the exact size square you need (size of the smallest block, as above). Cut out the template (cardboard/plastic you drew on) carefully...and lay it over each block...using a marker or pen..draw around each block where you need to trim. Cut off the excess around each block.
Yes, depending on the design of the blocks...you may loose a point or two...but you will be sooo happy you don't have to work with the nightmare of unevenly sized blocks.
An alternative to the templates from cardboard or plastic...freezer paper (available where the foil/plastic wrap is at the grocery store). Draw the exact size of the blocks onto the freezer paper, cut out and press the shiny side of the paper to the wrong side of the blocks.. carefully cut off the excess.
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QUESTION:
When piecing a quilt can I use denim and cotton fabric together in one block?
I got to thinking that the denim might be too heavy for the cotton what do you think?
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QUESTION:
would my quilting pieces shrink?
I bought a lot of 100% cotton fabric (this is my very first quilt) and I cut it up without washing it.
I don't want to wash it now... so I was thinking should I sew my pieces together and THEN wash the entire thing? given that they are all the same material, just different prints, they should all shrink the same right?
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ANSWER:
When the quilt is finished it is common to block the quilt.*
Wash in cold water - gentle cycle or let it swish a bit as you control the amount of time it washes and rinses.
Lay the quilt flat to dry.
When almost completely dry, gently tug the sides, top and bottom into place.
When completely dry, the quilt will be the same size as when you first made it.
*Here is a tutorial for blocking a finished quilt - http://www.dreamweavers-quilts.com/quilt-epiphany/2008/11/16/quilt-blocking-a-short-tutorial/
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QUESTION:
Where can I find a quilt foundation or paper piecing pattern for a tooth?
I'd like to make a wall hanging for my dentist.
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ANSWER:
I have found a picture to give you an idea ,
http://www.lucylearns.com/images/i-brush-my-tooth-happy-tooth-picture-16.gif
here is a template
http://www.ioffer.com/i/8-5x10-5-tooth-laser-cut-quilter-template-1-25-thick-144695719
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QUESTION:
What kind of stitch do I use when piecing together a hand stitched quilt.?
I know a basic stitch is used for the decorative stitching. When piecing the actual squares together what stitch do I use (exp. back stitch, chain stitch, running stitch)
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ANSWER:
"Sew together using small running stitches, it is possible to comfortably thread about 5 stitches on to the needle at one time. Before pulling the needle through, turn the work over again to check that the needle is following the marked seam line. If not remover needle and try again. It may be necessary to realign the patches."
For complete, illustrated instructions go here:
http://www.heirloomquilts.com.au/tut/tutorial2.php
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QUESTION:
Basic sewing machine for quilting, less than 0?
I'm looking for a basic sewing machine that will be mostly used for piecing/quilting. I would like it to have a drop feed feature and be less than 0. I have heard Singers are a good, durable brand. Does anyone have any suggestions please?
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ANSWER:
Skip the Singer and look for a Janome, Juki, Brother, Pfaff, Viking, Babylock, or Bernina. Some of these can be quite expensive, but many also have basic models that fit your price range. You could also try picking up a used machine. For quilting, there are a couple of other features you should look for. Make sure the machine has a quarter inch foot, either included, or available for purchase. You also want a needle down function, which means that the needle stops in the down position. Most machines stop with the needle up, which is great for sewing clothes, but not so great for piecing. Ideally, look for a needle up/needle down button, which lets you set it for your preference. Dropping the feed dogs means you'll want to do some free motion quilting, so make sure the machine has a free motion foot or darning foot. The best ones are open at the front, although clear plastic ones work well, too.
I think you're better off purchasing from a local dealer - they'll give you a lot of customer support, including training, and they can service your machine when it needs it.
I have a Pfaff, two Janomes, a Brother, an old Singer, an old Kenmore, and a VERY old Necchi. Pfaff, Janome and Brother get the most use.
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QUESTION:
paper piece quilting basic question?
I am interested in starting a paper pieced quilt pattern, my question is about the assembly. Do you sew the individual pieces first? Meaning do you put a clean edge on and then sew it to the base piece? I assume this is how you do it, but have never done it, any info would be appreciated.
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ANSWER:
You do all your blocks first. Sew the pieces together with a quarter inch seam. After you have all your blocks done then you sew them together to make the quilt. You sandwich the batting between the top and backing and then you quilt it.
If it's an appliqued one you still sew all the blocks first with your appliques, You first straight stitch the applique on and then you go over the straight stitch with a zigzag stitch so it doesn't fray. Assembly is the same as the pieced quilt the same as the pieced quilt.
There are videos on line that show the process of appliqueing if you want more info
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QUESTION:
What is the easiest way to transfer photo's onto a quilting square?
I want to incorperate people's faces in a spring handmade quilt. Everyone at work has to make a 12 x 12 inch quilting block for the quilt. I want to put their faces in the middle of flowers. Also everyone has a piece of the same material they have to use in the block in some way to tie the whole quilt together.
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ANSWER:
There are two ways to do this. You can get photo transfer paper at most craft stores and office supply stores. You print the photo onto the paper, then iron it on to the fabric. Be sure to reverse the picture before printing if there is writing on it, otherwise it will be backward when you iron it on.
The second (and far better) way is to use fabric sheets that have been treated to go through an inkjet printer. They are available at many craft stores. You print directly on the fabric, so it is much more durable than the iron on version. Be sure to read the instructions before you buy the product - some need to be heat set, some are machine washable, etc. A similar alternative is to buy Bubble Jet Set and Bubble Jet Rinse - products that you can use to create your own printer fabric. Iron it on to a piece of freezer paper to help it go through the printer easier.
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QUESTION:
Looking for photos of old time shadow quilting/Yarn is pulled through the back to color in the design.?
You take 2 pieces of fabrics...draw your design on the top one and hand quilt around the image...Then turn to the back and using a large needle, pull dark colored yarns through from the hand quilting stitches to the other side of the design to color in your design.
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ANSWER:
This is called shadow trapunto. Trapunto is the method of "stuffing" the quilting to create raised patterns, and is used a lot in wholecloth quilts. The first link is to Google Images of shadow trapunto. The other links are to instructions for the process. Karen McTavish, a well known quilter, includes discussion of shadow trapunto in her classes - a photo of one of her quilts is in the second link.
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QUESTION:
How to assemble a zook quilting frame?
I just bought this quilting frame at an auction. All the parts seem to be in the box but no instructions. It is probably 30 years old or so. There are three 10 foot rods, 4 "T" shaped legs, 2 16 inch boards, two brackets and 3 wooden hook shaped pieces. Any help would be greatly appreciatred.
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ANSWER:
I really don't have any idea if this will help you but for one thing I found a lot of references to Zook but no pictures. This site has pictures of a lot of different frames and hopefully you can match up what you have to one of the pictures. You can also match the price with what you paid.
http://www.allbrands.com/products/abc0829.html
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QUESTION:
Can you impart your quilting wisdom?
Tips, tricks, techniques? I've so far experimented with quilting freehand designs on to wadding sandwiched between two pieces of fabric. I'd like to start quilting with blocks and different fabrics. Can you advise me?
Assuming I buy a book to help me learn, what extra tips/personal tricks can you provide?
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ANSWER:
1. If you have the opportunity to take a class, go for it. You learn so much more "hands on."
2. Get two quilting books - "Start Quilting with Alex Anderson" to learn the basics, and "The Quilter's Ultimate Visual Guide" as a reference book.
3. While it's true that you should not let the quilt police stop you from doing what makes you happy, it's a good idea to listen to what they have to say before going your own direction. Translation: Learn how to do traditional piecing using quarter inch seam allowances and matching your points and seam intersections. Once you understand how and why that is important, you can make an informed decision about freestyle quilting (which I think is incredible, by the way).
4. Don't let "patterns" get in your way of creating. Once you understand how quilts/blocks go together, you can break down most photos of quilts and recreate them yourself.
5. Look to the internet for inspiration. Check out Flickr (a photo sharing website) - it's full of groups that feature quilts and other items made of fabric. It's free to look, and even has a basic membership for free. Once you get an account you can join the groups and participate in the discussions.
http://www.flickr.com/
6. There are also thousands of quilt and craft related blogs, some by well known quilt and fabric designers. Once you find a blog that interests you, look for their blogroll - a list of blogs that THEY follow. You can navigate your way through the online community by hopping from one blog to the next. Some bloggers provide tutorials, others have giveaways, and still more have amazing inspirational photos. And they're all willing to help you a newbie, if you're willing to ask.
7. If you would like to try some patterns, look for the free stuff first. Most fabric companies provide free patterns because many quilters want to make EXACTLY the quilt they see on the cover. That means they'll buy the fabric, which makes the fabric companies happy. They're all online - and links can be found at the website below.
8. There's a ton of info online - here's a page that assembles a bunch of links for you:
http://piecemealquilts.wordpress.com/quilting-resources/
9. On the more practical side, try chain piecing and use a leader. I was taught to call it a caboose - it's a small folded piece of fabric that you run through your machine instead of pulling the fabric away from the needle and cutting the thread. It saves thread (more importantly, you don't have a ton of thread littering the work area, the floor, and your clothes). Chain piecing is when you piece segments one right after the other. Say you're going to do 10 blocks. Sew the first two pieces together for each block, leaving just a 1/4" or so of thread between each pair. Cut them apart, press, and add the next piece to each of the blocks. Repeat until you finish the block - and you'll have finished 10 blocks, not just one. It's like factory line quilting.
10. Have FUN!
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QUESTION:
Can someone help me with basic quilting?
I've never made a quilt before, but I'm pretty good with sewing and all that stuff. I am just confused because I've been researching it online and websites are so unorganized and unclear. Do I make each block individual with a top, batting, and a back and then attach all the blocks together? or do I make the whole top of the quilt with blocks of fabric, then put the batting under the entire top piece and then a back? And what is the best way to attach individual blocks together if that is the method and i want to use a sewing machine?
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ANSWER:
The great thing about quilting is you can do it however you want. Traditional quiltmakers piece the entire top first, then sandwich it with the batting and backing, quilt it, trim the excess backing and batting, and then put on the binding. They may do any or all of it by hand or with a machine.
In order to quilt a very large quilt, you need to either
a. push and pull it on a regular sewing machine, which is very difficult for a beginner (and most experienced quilters as well)
b. have a mid-arm or long arm machine and frame setup, which can be fairly expensive, or
c. send it out to be quilted by someone else, which can also add up.
To deal with the problems involved in quilting a large quilt, people have devised ways to break it down into smaller "quiltable" sections, whether they're blocks, strips, or medallions and borders. There's an excellent book that deals with all of the different ways to quilt smaller sections, called "Divide and Conquer" from Possibilities (by Nancy Smith and Lynda Milligan).
You can also make "rag quilts" out of squares that are assembled after quilting. These are usually made of three layers of flannel (no batting). The squares are simply quilted (usually just an X in a box) and then sewn together with a large seam allowance, leaving the seam allowances visible on one side. You cut the fabric that's sticking up and wash it so it frays. It's a great way to do a quick, casual throw.
There are so many ways to accomplish every step in quilting - some emphasizing making it easier, some that focus on making it more accurate. I recommend checking out a few beginning quilting books. The best is one by Fons & Porter, "Quilter's Complete Guide." This is often used in classes, and covers just about everything you need to know about quilting. You can also pick up their magazine, "Fons & Porter's Love of Quilting" - it's in many grocery stores and has a great range of projects. You could also try Alex Anderson's "Start Quilting", which is the book my beginning class used.
If you have a chance to take a class, it's definitely worth the expense. There's nothing like having someone who knows what they're doing available to explain things. Failing that, check out QNNTV online - it's 24 hours a day of quilting videos.
Also, check out some of the Yahoo Groups on quilting. There are thousands, and I'm sure there are some that would appeal to you.
If you want, feel free to e-mail me through my Profile page - just click on my avatar or name, and then click "email swbiblio." This way both of our e-mail addresses are kept private. I love to give my opinion (really!), and I've been quilting for several years. If I don't know the answer, I can probably find it.
Good luck - quilting is addictive!
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QUESTION:
How would I make a puzzle piece quilt? Any other ideas for unique guilt’s?
I’m going in to making quilts and don’t know much about it or even how to sew really. I, however do have someone teaching me. I got this idea to make a quit that looks like a puzzle. Odd shaped pieces of fabric sewn to make one big picture. I’m not sure if it would work, so I’m asking around to see what others thoughts where. If you have any other ideas that would make a unique quilt let me know. Thanks.
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QUESTION:
Which website can I purchase pineapple quilt paper piecing patterns cheap?
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ANSWER:
I hope you don't mind but these were free on the web, just typed it in the search.
~~~~~Happy Quilting~~~~~
http://www.geocities.com/pcpiecers/pineapple.html
http://www.everythingquilts.com/index.asp?PAGEACTION=Custom&ID=7
http://www.blockcentral.com/patternamericanpineapple.pdf
http://mccallsquilting.com/qb/pattern_501/
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^{{ I love this one.}
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QUESTION:
How long should my quilting supplies last?
I just started quilting this past year. I've tried it in the past, but gave up because no matter how meticulously I measured, I could never get the squares to match up in the end. Then my cousin introduced me to a rotary cutter and measuring board. I was amazed! Now I could quickly and easily cut accurate, and for the first time my squares matched up! I excitedly worked through my first quilt and am very proud of how it turned out. Then while into my second quilt I started noticing deep rivets in my cutting board. Also, my rotary cutter seemed dull so I changed the blade, even though it seemed like I shouldn't have had to do that so soon. Now I'm cutting pieces for my third quilt and it's awful! I have to go over with the cutter 5-6 times, maybe even more, to have it go all the way through the fabric (I do not layer my fabric).The board has so many rivets in it that the fabric gets stuck in them, particularly around the main corner, where straight line cuts have gone all the way through the board. I can't even use that corner anymore, which is a pain since that's where the numbering starts at "1". (It's easier to count starting at "1". When I use the other corners I have to start at "23" and go backwards) Also, the screw that holds the blade in place keeps coming loose. Is it normal for my supplies to be breaking down already? I don't know what's going on with the rotary cutter. I thought the blades should last longer. I also thought the board would last longer. I obviously need to buy a new one. Shouldn't they be more durable? The brand name is Quilting Mate. Is this a bad brand? What are some good brands that will last longer? I didn't think a board would need to be replaced. Shouldn't the board last indefinitely?
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ANSWER:
Sounds like poor cutting technique to me... My oldest board is over six years old, and gets used for both garment cutting and quilting. None of my mats have deep grooves. These are usually caused by faulty technique on a poor quality board. It should take many years to wear out a board.
Blades wear out fairly fast. How fast depends on how much you use them and what fabrics you are cutting: denim and curtain fabrics and Polartec will wear a blade faster than quilting cotton. Be prepared to get through a blade for every quilt or two, depending on how many pieces go into the quilt.
You CAN sharpen blades with these gadgets: http://www.quiltersreview.com/article.asp?article=/review/product/010507_a.asp The different colours are for different sized blades.
Make sure that the blade is fully upright - truly vertical as you cut.
Make sure you do not angle it into the ruler: you'll chip the ruler and damage the blade.
Do not cut over pins or other obstacles.
You do not have to press hard: if you do, it means the blade is blunt, and this is when you damage the board. Use an ergonomic rotary cutter: easier to get the technique right! And easier on your hands...
Here are some tutorials about using rotary cutters:
http://www.sewingweb.com/Projects/RotaryCutting/
http://www.purlbee.com/rotary-cutter-tutorial/
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QUESTION:
How do I figure yardage for a fabric from a quilting piece?
I have a quilt pattern I want to make. I have figured out the amount of each piece I need and the finished sizes of the pieces but how do I translate that into yardage? Such as I have 20-3 inch squares, 2-3x5.5 inch rectangles, 2-3x10.5 inch rectangles, and 2-3x15.5 inch rectangles all of one color. How do I find out how much yardage to buy to get all my pieces without just guessing. Most fabric is sold in 45 inch wide "sheets" with the costumer buying it in yards.
Thank you honey but I wanted a formula so that I could figure up the rest of my fabric needs.
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ANSWER:
First figure out how many blocks you can get from one strip, cut width of fabric (WOF). Then figure how many strips you need to cut to get all the blocks you need. (eg. if you can get 10 blocks from one WOF strip, and you need 20, then it will take 2 WOF strips). Then multiply the number of WOF strips by the number of inches the width of the cut strip is to get the total number of inches of fabric needed for each block (three strips cut 3' each equals 9" of fabric). Do this with each size block you need,and when you are finished, add the total inches to figure out how much fabric you need. You should also consider the best way to cut the blocks - for instance, if you need several 3 x 15.5, you should decide if it is better to cut the strips 15.5 inches and then subcut into 3 inch pieces, or cut a 3" strip and then subcut into 15.5' pieces. It probably depends on how many you need. You want to have the least amount of wasted fabric as possible. If you have left-over fabric from one strip, you may be able to use that for cutting some smaller blocks. You have a better chance of this if you cut the larger strips first. I hope this isn't too confusing. I'm great at quilt-math, but not sure if I've explained it well. Just remember to allow for mistakes and "squaring-up" the end you cut from. There will be some fabric loss. Also, don't plan to use the selvage. It is a tighter weave and may pucker and will not look as nice as the rest of the fabric. Good luck!
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QUESTION:
Quilted Paper Piecing?
Is there a program where I can choose a picture and turn it into a Paper Piecing Pattern to make a quilt block? I have my own picture that I would like to turn into a Paper piecing pattern. How do I do that?
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QUESTION:
What should I do with my great-grandma's unfinished crazy quilt?
I have two parts of an unfinished crazy quilt, about 3 x 4 feet each. Should I finish it as a crazy quilt, or mount the pieces on black fabric and finish that as a quilt?
I don't know exactly how old the quilt pieces are, but the quilter died about 1990 at the age of 96.
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QUESTION:
What software programs are there for converting artwork to embroidery designs?
I do applique and embroidery and quilt piecing by hand, usually from my own drawings.
I am interested in automating these processes as much as possible, because I am losing both eyesight and manual dexterity with age.
From my investigations so far, embroidery machine manufacturers provide proprietary software with their machines, and this limits the designs to that machine. Besides, each design is a new cost. One can buy a software to convert designs into another format, but conversions often lose something in the translation.
What I want is to be able to use my own design, from one of my graphics programs, and duplicate it in cloth and threads.
Any advice from those of you who write software, or are fiber artists?
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ANSWER:
I just did a quick search and found the links below. To find more, try searching for words like embroidery, digitize, conversion, software.
Good luck!
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QUESTION:
Use fusible interfacing after t shirt quilt is pieced?
I'm thinking about starting a t-shirt quilt, and had a question about fusible interfacing. I know that it's generally applied to the t-shirts prior to the blocks being cut and sewn together. However, would it be possible to first piece the blocks and then apply the fusible interfacing?
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ANSWER:
You will get bumps where the iron on interfacing meets the seams that you sewed.
It's best to put the interfacing on after you cut the shirts but before you sew them together.
(If you do a 'picture frame' effect with cotton cloth around the t-shirt sections, you will not need any interfacing since the cotton frames will stabilize the stretchy t-shirt cloth.)
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QUESTION:
Does anyone know of a dirt bike piecing pattern available for download?
It is my nephews birthday soon and I really want to make him a quilt with dirtbikes all over it, seeing that they are his favorite! If anyone knows of a pattern or book that has a dirt bike paper pieced pattern in it I would greatly appreciate it!!!! Thanks
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ANSWER:
I haven't seen any available for download, but I have a pattern I'd be willing to sell you. I was planning it for my son, but never got around to it. Not sure if it is paper pieced, though. It might be applique.
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QUESTION:
what is the best way to start a whole quilt?
i am experienced in piecing quilts and hand sewing. i would love the intricate stitching but am not sure how to begin the pattern on a whole piece.
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ANSWER:
I suggest you begin with something small! Cut 2 pieces of white muslin and 1 piece of batting, all 12" square. Use a stencil or free-hand a design lightly with an ordinary No. 2 pencil on one of the pieces of fabric. Make a quilt sandwich. Baste it, with 1" or so stitches over the sandwich but with smaller stitches at the edges. Now -- give it a try! You can use white thread, which is traditional, or a brightly colored thread just because it's pretty and fun and it's easy to see what you are doing. As with quilting of other things, begin in the center and work your way toward the edges. You can pull out the binding as you go, of course. When the quilting is finished, add some edging all around the block. Ordinary bias binding works well, or you can use binding you make. Either way, it's good practice for mitered corners! When the binding is attached to please you, toss your mini-quilt into the washing machine and dryer. By the time you have made your first little experiment, you will know whether you really enjoy whole cloth quilting. You can make another mini-quilt of the same size as the first, with different pattern and thread, and put the two together as a pillow. (I always use a colored thread when I do whole cloth quilts, and have found that colors look quite different between being on the spool and in the quilt. They also tend to handle differently from color to color even within the same brand. So, for every whole cloth quilt I have made, I have a pillow I made first to test out fabric and threads before getting busy with a bed-size quilt.) As you can probably see, I adore whole cloth work and do quite a bit of it. But others decide it's not for them, and that's fine, but do make that decision with something small!
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QUESTION:
How do I let my drinking buddies know that the quilting project we're working on is turning out like hell?
We're your usual bunch of guys, you know, the kind who get off from a hard day's work and head down to the strip club to drink beer, ogle women, and work on our sewing projects. Well, a few weeks back we decided that our current project would be making a wall quilt for the club; the theme for the quilt is "a garden of pansies", and everyone is working on their pieces, all of them incorporating pansies.
It was such a great moment when we decided on the project, all of us were giving each other high-fives, spraying each other with beer, really excited to get started on the quilt. Now, a fortnight later, I am just disgusted with how it is all turning out. Simply put, everyone's pieces look like crap, and it is going to turn out to be one lousy quilt. How can we be proud of ourselves as men with such a travesty hanging on the wall?
Take Mad Dog's piece, for instance; I was getting a lap dance last night at the club, and was about ready to blow, ya know, when I look over and take in the quilting piece he was working on. He decided that his piece would be a "kittens and pansies" block, and I swear-to-god, that *kitten* looked like a rock with a tail on it! I pushed the dancer off of my lap and stomped over to Mad Dog, and he looked up and tremblingly asked me, "Hey, how do you like my piece? I know it isn't very good...." Well, I was about to chew him out when a fight broke out on the other side of the club between two guys over an embroidery hoop, so I had to go do some ass-kicking. By the time that was finished, everyone was clearing out to go home.
I stood in the parking lot and watched all the guys packing their sewing equipment and god-awful quilting pieces into their trucks and motorcycles, and just wanted to puke. The only piece of the quilt that's any good is my own "bunnies and pansies" block. I am at a loss here. If I speak up and tell everyone what a crappy job they're doing, I'll probably get my @ss kicked, but if I say nothing, we'll end up with some crappy quilt.
How can I let the guys know they need to man up and get serious about their sewing?
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QUESTION:
How do I find the blue feather in Harvest Moon?
I want to marry Owen in Harvest Moon; Tree of Tranquility, and I can't find the stupid blue feather anywhere! I thought that maybe you had to sell 1,000 G like with the activation of getting the quilt pieces, but that didn't work. If there are specific steps to follow, please tell me! Thanks!
Yes, it is a game. A very very VERY fun and addictive game.
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ANSWER:
You have to get 8 hearts with your future spouse before even being told about the Blue Feather. Once you do, the Mayor should come to your house and hint about it. Then you'll have to wait a random amount of time for another cutscene that will trigger first thing in the morning in front of your house, in which you will see the bluebird itself fly across town and drop its feather somewhere where you can retrieve it.
Also, your proposal won't be accepted unless you have all the other marriage requirements: all heart events completed (2-heart gift, 4-heart date, 5-heart gift, 5 heart request FULFILLED, and 6-heart confession), a Level 2 house, and a double bed.
Good luck!
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QUESTION:
Can anyone tell me what kind of floor lamp would be best for Reading?
My mother's eyesight is not so good anymore and loves to read, I read about a light called Ott Lite but I'm still not certain. Can anyone tell me what kind of floor lamp (or one like a floor lamp) is good for Reading and somtimes she quilts/pieces quilts.
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ANSWER:
The OTT light is fantastic - I have several that I use for quilting and other crafts. It's surprising what a difference this type of lamp makes. They're called full spectrum lights. My grandparents use them also because they make it so much easier to see clearly.
OTT lights are not cheap - a floor lamp runs between 0 and 0, but you can often find them on sale for as much as half off. If you have a Michaels craft store in your area, they are in their current flyer for 30% off. The first link will help you find a flyer for the nearest store based on your zip code. You can also try Jo-Ann Fabrics. Watch for sales - they sometimes are as much as 50% off. Jo-Ann's also has them on sale right now on their website (second link) starting at about for floor lamps. If you get their mailings, you can get coupons for 40% or even 50% off a single item in the store.
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QUESTION:
Is Kaufman Premium Muslin good enough quality for a quilt backing?
Is Kaufman Premium Muslin good enough quality for a quilt backing? It comes in the extra wide widths and it has a nice feel and a quick google search turned up anecdotal evidence that people use it for quilt backings...but does it wear well? Not necessarily for an heirloom piece but for a quilt that will be used (and probably abused) by a young family?
Mostly I am just lazy and hate piecing quilt backs, LOL.
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QUESTION:
What would be a country-style way to hang an old window that has a hand pieced quilt in each pane?
It is going to hang over the head of my bed.
